A Potted History of Animal Testing…
Or why we refuse to test on animals
A lot of modern chemicals were developed in the Victorian era and one of the things that the Victorians had a lot of was coal tar, which was a by-product of making the gas used in streetlamps. Not only was it abundant but it was also free, so if you were a research chemist you could get a lot of it.
So all sorts of chemicals, for example, modern fragrance materials like coumarin, were developed from coal tar. Even more interestingly modern dye stuffs, azo dyes, were developed from coal tar. So when you look at Queen Victoria sitting there in purple, that was one of the first ever new dye stuffs and it was incredibly expensive so that’s why the Queen wore it. Then they started to develop other colours through the First World War so that you could dye curtains and carpets and bedding and clothes, and it wasn’t very long before some bright spark took carpet dyes and started to dye peoples’ hair with it. And the problem with that is that it was highly allergic, so many people had dreadful reactions to it. Their tongues would swell, they would asphyxiate and die, or suffer dreadful allergic reactions and itch and be in a terrible state for several days. But that didn’t stop people from doing it because liked to have their hair coloured.
Now the other problem with these dyes is that because they are very tiny molecules, they could pass through the skin and into the bloodstream. When people who had recently had their hair dyed were studied, traces of the dye were found in their urine, and the dye stuff could be detected for up to 24 hours after having their hair dyed. Tellingly, these fairly obvious results were “tests” on human beings. When they started to test on animals they really couldn’t agree whether it had any negative effect at all. So there have been lots of tests on animals over the years and still this material is used in hair dyes and still cause problems for the people using them. So here we’ve got a series of tests that aren’t quite up to the job and it’s not surprising really because you wouldn’t expect rubbing a bit of dye stuff on a hamster or a guinea pig and then seeing what happens to them to be a very good model for a human being.
When I first started my career finished cosmetics were still being routinely tested on animals. So an eyeshadow, a lipstick, a shampoo; they would go through a series of tests on animals. That wasn’t really very nice and quite often very cruel. So we started to come up with a standard that all cosmetic companies could join to stop the testing of finished products on animals and it became a huge issue and many people wrote to cosmetic companies and basically testing of finished cosmetics on animals stopped. That was a great success.
Still, one had to look at it and think, well we may not be testing the finished goods but we are still testing the raw materials. So they were still taking the raw materials and they were testing them on animals. So we came up with this new rule, which said that if you were testing on animals we won’t buy from you. One of the most exciting things during the last government was that they banned testing on animals for cosmetics products, and did away with most of the testing on the ingredients. We had just thought that we had won that, that it was all over, that everything would be cruelty free - when a new piece of European legislation cropped up, called the Registration, Evaluation and Authorisation of Chemicals (REACH) and this legislation meant that they would be screening all existing ingredients for their safety and many of those tests would be on animals.
Now our attitude at Lush is that the best way of seeing if something is safe or not is for it to have had a long history of safe use. So if you take rosemary, people have been picking rosemary and popping it in their food or making teas out of it or washing their faces with it for at least 500 years. If you take Henna, it has been used for 2000 years at least, people have rolled their babies in it, they’ve eaten it in Morocco, it has an extremely long history of safe use. So having something with a very long history of safe use is the way we tend to work.
The situation we now find ourselves in with cosmetics is that existing raw materials, where in the past we could guarantee that they weren’t going to be tested on animals, now even well established things could be tested on animals. REACH has already begun, but when it was becoming legislation we took a big lorry-load of horse manure and dumped it outside the European Parliament in protest of these mandatory animal tests, which made us feel slightly better but probably didn’t save any animals’ lives. So for us, at the moment, what this means is that there are going to be more and more ingredients being tested where we cannot find a supplier that has not been involved, because under REACH if you are the manufacturer of supplier of any of the ingredients covered then you are obliged to contribute to any of the animal testing that the EU demands. So where do we go now on cruelty-free? Well we know we’re not going to have finished products tested on animals and we would like to create a new criteria against animal testing that includes the funding of alternatives to animal experiments. And hopefully we can raise some money to get that to happen, or certainly influence authorities to make that happen. Despite the massive obstacles to cruelty-free cosmetics that REACH has thrown up, we haven’t given up and we’re working hard every day to do everything we can to fight against animal testing and for safety through alternative technology.